The Coed Cae B&B
nestles amongst the trees overlooking the beautiful Mawddach
estuary at the southern end of the Snowdonia National Park.
Revered in past-times by the likes of Wordsworth and Ruskin,
the estuary itself is an area of outstanding natural beauty.
It is noted by the more contemporary Rough Guide as “Wales’
finest” and features amongst their list of Welsh “must
sees”.
The area
has been inhabited since the earliest of times, and the hills
either side of the estuary are punctuated by prehistoric burial
mounds, standing stones and Iron-age hill forts.More recently
industrial activities have left their mark, with the mining
of precious metals featuring prominently.
There are scattered
remnants of the local gold mining industry, including the
famous Clogau mine, which has provided the Welsh gold for
recent royal wedding rings.
You also do not have to look too
hard to find a very real and thriving Welsh culture. The character
of the scattered working hill farms has not changed greatly
in generations, and the Welsh language is in everyday use
for many in the community.
The
lower reaches of the estuary were an important ship-building
centre, but the industry has long since left these shores. Perhaps
the only surviving remnant of this activity is that Barmouth
(Abermaw) harbour still formally extends 8 km upstream to Penmaenpool
(opposite Coed Cae) where in 1879 the toll bridge was built
with a central span wide enough to allow the passage of sea-going
vessels.
In the nineteenth century Barmouth, at the mouth of
the estuary, moved on from its manganese-mining past and found
a new lease of life as a sea-bathing resort for the English
Midlands, spawning a fresh wave of development in the region.
An area known as Dinas Oleu (fortress of light), set in the
cliffs above Barmouth, became the National Trust’s first
property in 1895 and children with whooping cough were traditionally
taken to these rocky tops to benefit from the sea air.
The
ravages of World War II left their mark even on this, the most
placid of places, and numerous air bases and training camps
were in place along the coast. A group of 6 unknown sailors
found their final resting place in the churchyard at Llwyngwril,
on the southern margins of the estuary, after they were torpedoed
in the bay, and a hillside plaque bears testimony to another
tragic episode where a B-17 flying fortress heading home in
1945, crashed into the hillside above Arthog with the loss of
all crew.
The
ancient wool-trading town of Dolgellau, 5 km west of Coed Cae,
is a bustling hub for outdoor activity, and people have come
to the area to escape the city and view the spectacular scenery
for hundreds of years. The hills are criss-crossed with old
mining tracks and pack-horse trails just begging to be explored,
and the area is home to Cadair Idris, perhaps the second most
famous peak in the Snowdonia National Park. As early as the
1800’s there were guides with ponies selling tourist trips
over this dramatic peak.
Not far away the purpose-built and popular
mountain bike trails of Coed y Brenin offer spectacular biking
at all levels, and local
mountain bike guides can help you find the less well known
hidden-gems also present in the area. The challenging Lôn
Las Cymru long distance cycle route, which traverses Wales from
Holyhead to Cardiff passes close to our door, as does the Mawddach
trail, a disused railway bed running the length of the estuary
and offering easy cycling and walking for all.
The Dolgellau to Barmouth Mawddach Trail walk
was recently highlighted by Julia Bradbury as she completed
this trail (meeting Coed Cae's very own Jacky en-route) on the
BBC's "Railway Walks" program (which
is now out on DVD - Railway
Walks with Julia Bradbury )
Barmouth
harbour is popular with the jet-ski and yachting fraternities
and is also the starting point for the famous 3-peaks
yacht race, where teams of yacht-crews and fell-runners
tackle the highest peaks in Wales, England and Scotland.
Mawddach Estuary | Mawddach Trail | Mawddach Way
Why
not try a
Spoke 'n' History cycling heritage tour
along the Mawddach Estuary?
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The Toll Bridge at Penmaenpool
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View over the Mawddach Estuary
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